André's at the Monte Carlo

With the renowned Urbane Design Associates responsible for the dazzling yet charming aesthetics, entering Andre’s contemporary French restaurant is the beginning of a foray into the opulent. Nestled in its comfortable nook amidst a row of varying fine dining choices at the Monte Carlo Resort of Las Vegas, Andre’s lays claim to the reputation for being one of the most honored and awarded restaurants in the city, from its multiple AAA and Four-Diamond ratings to its delectable menu inspired by “the first Las Vegas celebrity chef” Andre Rochat. The intimate main dining room of Andre’s is seductively complemented by three impressive private areas, an intimate cigar and cognac lounge, and variations of classic French creations from chef de cuisine Gary FX LaMorte. 

What’s more, beyond the dizzying array of cognacs, Armagnacs, and after-dinner drinks in the restaurant’s collective arsenal, Andre’s boasts over 15,000 legendary vintage wines in their cellar and has been honored with the prestigious Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator. Here, vintages from the most exalted Bordeaux, Chateaux, and Burgundy wineries await the most demanding of aficionados; in addition to top-shelf New World, Italian, and Spanish labels.

The immediate reaction that struck my wife and me as we were greeted and directed to our table by General Manager David Borowik was the absolute intimacy of Andre’s main dining room. ’'Intimate’ can almost be an understatement here, with romantic booths and traditional cloth-covered tables sprinkled throughout the surprisingly small room. Varying sizes of circular-shaded chandeliers are suspended from the center of the dining room’s ceiling, which itself is multi-tiered with blue etching. Beautifully and intricately detailed, each ceiling tier is finished in different shades of cream and brown, eventually flowing into a sea blue color. With mirrors adorning the walls, swirled blue candle holders on each table, and oversized booths with blue and brown Orleans-inspired textured fabrics, Andre’s really does hearken back to a classic period in France’s colorful history.

Unassuming from its façade, one would never know that Andre’s is a multi-leveled structure. However, take the charming elevator ride to the upper floors and one discovers the beautifully lavish private dining areas capable of easily hosting small wedding or business parties, a displayed eye-opening cognac collection boasting labels dating back to the 1800s, and the aforementioned smoking and cognac lounge. The design elements on the walls and ceilings of these private dining rooms, as well as the suave corridors that lead to them, can rival the interiors of many top-shelf banquet and catering facilities. Needless to say, the tantalizing atmosphere created by Andre’s is simply mesmerizing.

Upon sitting in our sprawling, dramatic booth, my wife and I began our evening at Andre’s with a couple of glasses of Monchhof Riesling white wine. Recommended by the general manager, this German wine was wonderfully crisp and light with a lovely dash of sweetness. 

The first course we sampled, compliments of Andre’s Chef de Cuisine Gary FX LaMorte, was a specially-prepared salmon tartare served over a slice of hard-boiled egg. Effectively cold to the tongue and bursting with freshness, the salmon was deliciously clean and light in flavor, and was served on visually intriguing square-shaped crystal. The smooth yet robust texture of the salmon tartare dollop was complemented by the fresh taste of the hard-boiled egg beneath it. We did take note that chef LaMorte was preparing this appetizer not only for us, but also for our fellow patrons dining at Andre’s that evening. This was evidenced by the arrival of the dish at each occupied table in the restaurant, thus making it not a standard menu item but a surprise creation.  

Next, we were treated – our server graciously lifting the elegant stainless steel covers off each plate before placing them in front of us, in standard charming Andre’s practice – to a crab dish that had an interesting back story to it. According to Chef LaMorte, crab is traditionally boiled at sea on the fishing ships using salt water, hence its normally brackish flavor. At Andre’s, he explained, their crab is prepared in a hyperbaric chamber, which utilizes pressure to separate flesh from shell without any heat or coagulation of protein. The resulting flavor is naturally sweet. This crab we sampled was served atop a lentil puree; the crab itself was tender, meaty and sumptuous, complemented by the rougher texture and flavor of the puree. 

Along with the crab dish, we were brought a pan-seared scallop topped with caviar and served in a warm cream-based sauce.  The scallop was tender and seared, complemented by the slightly lemon-esque flavor of the caviar. Both the crab and the scallop courses were served on wildly curvaceous white porcelain plates, unique even amongst the trendiest of eateries.

Following the crab and scallop was a Pan-Seared Foie Gras, a French delicacy, which came atop a deliciously sweet apple puree. This dish exhibited velvety smooth overtones and textures, allowing it to literally melt in our mouths. Additionally, with the foie gras we sampled a Pear and Roquefort Salad with lolla rossa leaves, which came with candied walnuts tossed in a pumpkin seed vinaigrette. The pear was wrapped in flaky, buttery phyllo dough and crisped, leaving a warm, flavorful pear within. 

These dishes were accompanied by staff-recommended “Foie Gras Martinis” created specially by chef LaMorte, served tableside with shaved truffles on top. The martinis were served in elegant, slender and tall crystal martini glasses and exhibited a rich, sweet, almost milkshake-like flavor – the palate sensations were wonderful.

What would any meal derived from the legendary culinary arts of France be without a traditional Onion Soup? At Andre’s, this popular creation is served as a rich, savory broth brimming with onions and just the right amount of gruyere cheese. We also sampled a delicious Lobster Bisque Soup, lusciously smooth and creamy with puff pastry croutons and a lemon cream floating atop the surface. These pastry croutons gave the traditional lobster bisque a unique sweetness, unlike any lobster bisque soup I had tasted before, while the lemon cream added just the right amount of kick. Before moving on to the main course, we cleared our palates with a refreshing blueberry sorbet served in a shot glass.

In direct opposition to what our digestive capacities were telling us, it was soon time to sample the main course selections that were two highly recommended dishes by Chef LaMorte. In addition to being Andre’s signature dishes, the Live Maine Lobster Thermidor and imported Dover Sole arrived at our table in stunning fashion. For starters, the two-pound lobster is removed and cooked in a lobster cream sauce with white mushrooms, then placed back into its shell for presentation and topped with a rich hollandaise sauce. There is no other word to describe this dish than ‘delectable.’ The massive pieces of lobster meat swimming in the succulent, creamy mixture of the hollandaise sauce and the lobster cream had us refusing to put our forks down. 

Likewise, the imported Dover Sole was prepared in a delightful brown butter sauce, de-boned and topped with sliced green grapes and seasonal mixed vegetables on the side. The flavor of the sole was immensely fresh, with buttery overtones, and both the Lobster Thermidor and Dover Sole were served atop a bed of creamy, whipped, homemade mashed potatoes. 

Both my wife and I simply could not eat another bite – especially considering the gushing we did over the Lobster Thermidor. Alas, with the French being known for their decadent deserts, we were brought two to sample: A chocolate walnut cake served with a small scoop of sugar cane ice cream, and a gran marnier soufflé. The soufflé was creamy and fluffy and exhibited a hint of citrus, while the walnut cake was rimmed in a layer of deliciously sweet chocolate that had a difficult time keeping up with the sugary goodness of the sugar cane ice cream.

At the conclusion of our meal, we proceeded up the elevator to the cozy and charming smoking lounge in order to finish our coffee and discuss the Andre’s experience. While I myself did not indulge in any cigar relishing, there is a copious amount of top-shelf cigars available for aficionados to choose from, with the atmosphere emanating from this room offering an excellent retreat for an after-dinner cognac or smoke. This air filtration system-equipped lounge really was a unique attraction – a roaring fire sits at the heart of the somewhat darkened room, while cushion-lined benches and small candle-lit tables are sprinkled throughout the area. With upbeat jazz playing melodically in the background and a fully-stocked bar off to one corner, I was truly charmed by Andre’s relaxing smoking and cognac lounge, and I am certain others have been – and will be – as well. 

From the intimate and unique private lounge area to the downright decadent cuisine and Chef de Cuisine Gary LaMorte’s impressive culinary talents at the helm, Andre’s at the Monte Carlo Resort begins to redefine upscale French cuisine. If you seek not just a meal but an experience while in Las Vegas, seek out the sexy, modern twist on traditional French delicacies at Andre’s.