Alberto Lazzarino, Chef/Owner of Melograno, is from a small town called Canelli in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy, and growing up in this region had a significant influence on his culinary path.
The town where he grew up, which is located in the province of Asti, is surrounded by vineyards and the wine industry as a whole is closely connected to the local way of life. So, for Alberto, pursuing a wine education at such a young age was a natural thing to do. Alberto first began his professional journey at the age of fourteen, when he took on a serious study of wine and oenology.
For several of his teenage years, Alberto studied wine (he is still very influenced by the experience). During this time, a highly regarded teacher made the recommendation that he study gastronomy. Having had a great interest in it already, he did just that by entering into a very competitive and prestigious culinary college. Alberto developed the foundation of his culinary skills here, and then followed his formal training with several years of cooking apprenticeships throughout Spain and France.
In 1991, Lazzarino was sought out for his talents by Los Angeles restaurateur Mauro Vincente, and was asked to come work at Rex il Ristorante. Alberto accepted the offer and thus began his stateside culinary career.
What continues to motivate Alberto today is the use of ingredients that are provided for by the season and from the local harvest, or in his own words, “that which comes from the earth.” Even the name of his restaurant, which means pomegranate, is a nod to Mother Nature’s unique gifts and his appreciation of them.
Alberto credits his parents for having instilled this appreciation in him, by always using whatever ingredients came to them locally. He has a great deal of respect “for all that is received,” he says. In speaking with him, one can sense the reverence he gives to those first summer truffles, or the hare that will later become his signature ragu. This approach to cooking is what elevates his food into another realm.
At Melograno, Alberto has chosen to focus his cuisine specifically towards Piedmont, bringing his culinary journey full circle. In doing so, he has taken on a challenge, but one that his upbringing and extensive culinary training has prepared him for. Even though this approach can be limiting, Alberto manages to create dishes that have widespread appeal but also show thoughtful restraint and attention detail. Dishes like the Barolo-braised hare over angel hair pasta with pomegranate reduction showcase his obvious culinary chops. His hand-made pasta is deserving of accolades, and he takes pride in always preparing this himself, using his own finessed touch. When a chef has this much passion for what he does, it inevitably translates into the food, and this is undoubtedly the case at Melograno.