Alison at Blue Bell

An undulating swell of cicadas and tree frogs chorusing in country harmony enchants the night air. Nature’s noisy nocturnal crooners are perched atop trees, ubiquitous and unseen in the woodsy surroundings. At first blush, the brick-façade strip-mall structure that houses Alison at Blue Bell appears to be somewhat nondescript. But with each stride toward the eatery, we’re struck by the atmosphere – the laid-back pastoral aura that engulfs this sheltered alcove located just a quick zag off the main highway. The tranquil vibe is underscored as the cupola that caps the eatery comes into view. It offers a rustic foreground for the beautiful summer sky, dominated by a full moon veiled intermittently by wispy, fleeting shape-morphing clouds. The entire scene is awash in plein aire rusticity.

The setting seems incongruous at first. In big cities, building tops hog the skyscapes. And tree frogs in sparse trees can’t compete with city cacophony. (That’s not to say the city lacks charms, only that the city beckons with an entirely different bag of charms.) Since the city is where Alison Barshak, Alison at Blue Bell’s eponymous chef/ owner, made her rep, these suburban digs seem a bit out of kilter. At least, that is our initial impression – an impression that steals away gently with the night. 

Alison Barshak is arguably the Quaker City’s most celebrated female chef. In the mid-eighties, she mastered her culinary chops at such iconic Quaker City spots as The Commissary, Apropos, and Central Bar & Grill. However, Alison burst into national culinary prominence in 1994 when she was chosen as the debut chef at Philly’s much ballyhooed and anticipated Striped Bass. The restaurant lived up to its billing. Esquire magazine honored the Striped Bass as the "Best New Restaurant of the Year.” The award proved a launching pad for the Alison starship. She was selected as one of 15 chefs in the country to participate in the PBS television series, "America's Rising Star Chefs." She graced one of Philadelphia Magazine's covers, a locally coveted prize and a rarity for chefs. The slender, red-tressed chef has since been covered in dozens of national publications including the New York Times, USA Today, Bon Appétit, Gourmet, Travel & Leisure, Nation's Restaurant News and Food Arts. When she left the Striped Bass after couple of years to start her own restaurant, the ill-fated Venus and the Cowgirl, the story of her departure was front-page Philly news.

Alison’s Venus, unfortunately, never greened. Upon its demise, she moved out of the city and set up shop in the suburbs. A few years ago, she opened a cafe on Route 73 (Skippack Pike) in the remote hamlet of Cedars. The venture proved too small and too isolated so she relocated down Route 73 to her current location right above Pennlyn Pike. Though she is no longer part of the Quaker City scene, Alison’s name and reputation still carry considerable charisma and cosmopolitan clout. Like rock ‘n roll, Philly foodies never forget. 

Alison at Blue Bell is an unpretentious, sparse but tidy, 60-seat L-shaped room where informality rules. Most of the clientele are discriminating dinerati in search of standout cuisine. Wood-surfaced tables are clustered close together, which regrettably contributes to a rather high decibel level that occasionally crescendos uncomfortably. A number of large parties frequent the room, although couples seek it out as well. When weather permits, 20 additional alfresco seats are available – a lovely summer option that allows for dining under a tented canopy with nature’s soundtrack playing the soulful audio. 

Visitors to Alison at Blue Bell enter a tiny waiting area fronted by a bustling open kitchen. Off to the side, there’s a four-seat bar bench for pre- or post-dinner wine drinking. The restaurant has recently converted from a BYOB. They now offer a small but smartly selected wine list (sangria, 2 sparklings. 5 whites, 4 reds) as well as two imported beers. If you bring your own wine, there’s a $5 corkage fee. 

Alison fans are legion. They travel miles for her food, described as contemporary American cuisine with Mediterranean, Southwestern and Asian influences, with a heavy emphasis on seafood.  However, Alison’s own term may better capture the singularity of her style: “mesti-soul.” Her dishes sing with soul and ambition. The bright tastes that characterize her cuisine never muddle into culinary confusion.

Among the appetizers, Ginger Fried Squid is superbly tender. Behind a bountiful underlying mango slaw that powers up on fruity mango and Julienne carrots, the squid gains its full potential. Drizzles of wasabi sauce infuse the dish with subtle spark.

In the Caesar Salad, a lusty classic Caesar dressing clads each leaf of Romaine lettuce in proper measure while Parmesan shavings are interspersed profusely.

Salmon and Risotto Croquettes soar on the sublimity of contrasts: the smoky essence of salmon playing off perfectly against the mellow creaminess of risotto. Truffle soy aioli coaxes a tangy ending out of each forkful. 

Among the entrées, Brick Wrapped Wild Striped Bass is a longtime Alison standby. The dish gives a scrumptious nod to her halcyon but hectic Striped Bass days.

The pistachio couscous that teams with Grilled Lamb underscores the strength of the Team Alison kitchen. No ingredient ever serves as a passive afterthought. Rather than simply providing a bland platform for the lamb, the couscous lends a distinctive nutty riff that skillfully cuts the richness of the lamb. Teamed with sides of julienne vegetables and figs, the ensemble deserves its appellation as a destination dish.

The Spicy Brown Quail showcases the kitchen’s versatility. Quail, which has been wrapped in prosciutto and bronzed to a savory crisp, is stuffed with cheese grits that blend creamy texture into each bite, in an unexpected paean to an overlooked “down-home” country ingredient. The dish, which is presented simply, is deceptively complex in its successful orchestration of diverse tastes and textures. 

Seafood dishes remain Alison’s predilection. Firm meaty pan-seared Alaskan Halibut is a delight. Partnered with sweet truffled creamed corn, a lush contrast to the fish, the halibut is a not-to-be-missed dish.
A bite of spinach picks up Parmesan Crusted Monkfish smartly, with tomato jam adding a dulcet note and a side of eggplant expanding an artful spectrum of taste and texture.

All after-dinner sweets are confected in-house by pastry chef Amelia Dietrich. Her creations resonate with the prospects of discovery. A Raspberry Fig Tart packs a fruity wallop into moist, divine pastry topped with colorful frozen orange mousse. The sweetness of Mango Upside Down Cake is moderated to perfection, then topped with luscious butterscotch vanilla ice cream. A Walnut Sticky Bun Ice Cream Sandwich upscales and uplifts two formerly distinct and (until now) mundane classics. 

It’s refreshing to enjoy the kind of cosmopolitan flair Alison at Blue Bell brings to a quiet village like Blue Bell. Alison’s style holds up to the standards of her former concrete-and-brick haunts of Philly’s Restaurant Row. Alison at Blue Bell features the added perk of unlimited free parking. You don’t get that in the big city. Nor can you enjoy the parting symphony that plays as you leave Alison at Blue Bell. Motoring off with rolled-down windows, we marvel again at the sound of the local bug band – the best bug band ever, we all agree. Eat your hearts out, Crickets and Beatles.