Branzino Ristorante

Tucked behind Rittenhouse Square on South 17th between Locust and Latimer, Branzino Ristorante is a true gem to the area. While the quaint Italian BYOB may have less notoriety than some of the other Rittenhouse establishments, a single visit will deem it worthy of a return.

Upon approaching the restaurant, I first noticed the outdoor, umbrella-clad tables; an asset to any Philadelphia eatery. However, stepping through the front door into a white linen-clothed and candle-illuminated dining room, I knew that the outdoor experience would never do a first visit to Branzino any justice.

Inside, I absorbed the warm atmosphere of the entry room on the first floor. Between the large front window and adjacent wall-sized mural of the Positano coast, both day and evening dining can be enjoyed indoors while still feeling a presence of city-street charm.  The polished glass of crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling combined with the casual essence associated with a local find makes Branzino a great place for both couples and small groups. Do note however, that the tables are situated relatively close to one another, which might be a little too intimate for a first date, and the mood is quiet, making the restaurant not the best place to bring children.

There is a larger, 65-seat dining room up a short stairway. It too is graced with a giant mural, but this one of a Tuscan landscape. Branzino can host private parties and banquets for up to 45 people in this upstairs room, or for up to 80 people if reserving the entire restaurant. However, because there is no room exclusively designated for private events, they do not book special events on Friday and Saturday evenings.  Three-course fixed price menus for private events range between $35.00 and $55.00 per person.

We were fortunate to arrive early enough to have our choice of table, and selected one of the two-tops by the window.  The street view is the not the prettiest or busiest in Philadelphia, with a condominium construction project sprouting up across the street, but still offers a peripheral feel of city living.

As we sat down, I took note that my dressed-up blue jeans were just as suitable as the more formal attire of the couple sitting next to me, as there was a mismatch of casual and elegant throughout the restaurant. Whether choosing Branzino as a place to celebrate in style, or for a last-minute indulgent meal, do not pass up this excellent dining opportunity because of your attire. 

The artistic force behind the décor is also the owner and chef, Luan Tota, one of many Albanian restaurateurs who own Italian restaurants in Philadelphia.  After immigrating to the country in 1999, he worked in the restaurant industry for four years before opening Branzino. The inspiration for Branzino’s menu comes from the several years Tota lived in Italy. Since opening, to cater to some of the returning clientele, Tota has begun to incorporate Jewish influence into some dishes, such as Fried Artichokes and Salmon Dijon.

Beyond the few imported specialty items, the dishes are made of the freshest ingredients that Philadelphia has to offer. The produce is hand-selected regularly from the Italian Market, and the meats and seafood are also purchased from local vendors.  Even the pastas and breads are made from scratch, straight out of the Branzino kitchen.

The menu is extensive. There are about a dozen starter plates, and entrée options that include pasta, risotto, meat, veal, chicken and fish. There are also daily specials offered each night.  With so many enticing and interesting combinations of ingredients, I wished I was dining as part of a large party intent on tasting many dishes, so that I could fully take advantage of the generous scheme of flavors Branzino had to offer.  The insalate and antipasto list alone could jolt the senses.

After careful consideration, my companion and I decided to begin with the Carpaccio di Filetto and the Cozze Marinara.  The Carpaccio di Filetto was one of two carpaccio antipasto options, the other being tuna. The Carpaccio di Filetto is a filet mignon sliced paper-thin and peppered with capers, chopped onion and Parmigiano Reggiano with a hint of lemon and garnished with arugula. The meager presence of the filet itself was left inconspicuous in flavor by the toppings. With each bite, the punch of capers and onion was subdued by the polite cover of the rest of the ingredients. The dish left nothing to be desired except for possibly a larger portion.

If the Carpaccio di Filetto on a one-to-ten scale was at ten, then the Cozze Marinara would have to be a fifteen. The Cozze Marinara featured a conservative-sized bowl of small cultivated mussels imported from Prince Edward Island. Simmered in a tomato-based garlic sauce, the simplicity of the ingredients did not match the intensity of the flavor.  The mussels melted in our mouths; the sauce delightfully penetrating our taste buds with an initially spicy start and a lasting finish comparable to a smooth merlot. As for what for what remained after the mussels had been consumed, we used the leftover shells to scoop up every last drop.  After being spoiled some of the world’s most famous mussels in my international travels (where tourists journey by bus and boat just to try them), I was pleased to find an accessible local dish to satisfy the craving. 

For our entrees we chose the Ravioli di Zucca (one of the many meat-free options on the menu) and the Branzino Marinato. The Ravioli di Zucca was a mild, squash-filled ravioli dressed with a sage and Parmigiano Reggiano sauce. Although it is noted to be a house favorite, it did not ignite the same enthusiasm as did our other selections.  The excellence in the dish lied primarily in the homemade quality of the pasta; however, the temperate nature of the sauce did not make it a wow.

On the other hand, the Branzino Marinato is a must, not only for its namesake, but because of the intoxicatingly smooth flavor.  A fresh, beautiful Venetian fish similar to sea bass is grilled in a delightful white wine sauce with extra virgin olive oil, capers, fresh herbs and lemon. The waiter carefully filleted the fish in front of us—a visually engaging experience in itself—and placed it on a large plate with a garnish of mixed grilled vegetables: red peppers, squash, and potatoes.  The flesh was so tender that we could have used a spoon to eat it, and the simple marinade merely highlighted the quality of the fish more than flavored it. 

The dessert menu consists of a handful of staple items such as tiramisu and tartufo as well as a few continually changing specials, all of which are made by Tota himself. The desserts were presented verbally by our waitress after our meal. We chose the Semefredo; a rich almond pastry. It was a generous slice of delight.  The dense body of the pastry was layered with chocolate shavings and infused with the essence of Italian liquor and espresso. It was delicious, and paired with two cappuccinos, a perfect way to end the meal.

Although we had eaten every last crumb off of our plates, I did not feel overly full. The portions were moderately-sized, and reasonably priced (mid-range) and the waitstaff was extremely polite and attentive, with well-timed presentation of each course. 

Since my visit I have repeatedly recommended Branzino to friends and acquaintances alike.  Without reservation, I would take the first opportunity to dine at this fine Italian restaurant a second time…and maybe even a tenth.