The little storefront dining room charms with its relaxed, almost random decor. Pale walls reflect the glow of paper-wrapped votives. The pressed flowers beneath the glass tabletops, the hanging kilim and shelves filled with tchotchkes are the kind of personal touches you might see in someone's home. It's comfortable, if a bit loud, because the 40-seat room is almost always packed to capacity. Listen closely, and you'll hear among the buzzing conversations the steady interjections of oohs and aahs. This restaurant's hallmark is wholesome and substantial food, served in hearty portions yet executed with the utmost delicacy.