D'Angelo's Ristorante
256 South 20th Street, Philadelphia PA 19103In a land of BYOs and restaurants that seem more like clubs, D’Angelo’s brings Italian-American classics back to the center of Center City. Right off Rittenhouse Square, this family-owned and run bi-level institution showcases an extensive menu of no-frills Italian staples in very American-sized portions: Shrimp Scampi over Linguine, Calamari Fritti, and Veal Marsala. Perhaps even more robust than the menu is the international wine list, which maintains an appropriate emphasis on Italy. A cozy yet graceful interior that feels like Little Italy begets a romantic atmosphere suitable for any first date, or just some good old-fashioned feasting.
From Italy, to America, to Somewhere in Between
Review by TableAgent
D’Angelo’s Ristorante is an old-school Italian restaurant founded on a new world American dream. The D’Angelo family, including Tony, the head chef, brother Salvatore, mother Maria, and sister Magdelena, were all born and bred in Milan, Italy. In 1990, the family made their way to Center City, Philadelphia to start D’Angelo’s, bringing with them family recipes from Milan, which they used to cultivate their traditional menu. Over 10 years later, not much has changed.
In the bustling area of Center City, you could easily miss D’Angelo’s even with its central location on 20th Street, just a block off of Rittenhouse Square. The Rittenhouse area itself is literally surrounded by restaurants and bars, making it a great choice for an evening out on the town. From the outside, it looks almost as if D’Angelo’s is closed, due to dim interior lighting and a closed front door. In the summertime it is easier to spot, thanks to the few small patio tables set up outside, good for before-dinner drinks, after-dinner coffee, or eating dinner itself.
Walking into D’Angelo’s is like being transported immediately to Little Italy. The walls are covered with black-and-white photos of celebrities that have visited the restaurant, or snapshots of famous Italian Americans, including, of course, a tasteful portrait of the entire D’Angelo family. The pictures continue on up the stairs to the walls of the second floor. Both floors have a small bar and larger dining rooms, which together boast about 30-40 two- and four-top tables. With its spacious interior, D’Angelo’s would be an ideal dining destination for a large party. The carpeted floor muffles the sound of ladies heels, which prove prevalent on a Friday or Saturday evening, since D’Angelo’s’ cozy atmosphere and romantic Italian fare make for a very popular date destination. The clientele and wait staff are dressed in the same fashion as the restaurant’s interior: elegant casual. White tablecloths, silverware and fresh carnations on the tables complete this Italian-American casual elegance.
The hostess sat our party, two people, at a four-top table by the window, allowing for a very spacious personal environment. There were three or four other tables around us, all close enough to the window to allow sunlight to hit the table but not close enough to see outside to the street below. My guest and I barely had time to settle in before we were brought a cut-up loaf of Italian bread and a bowl of olive oil infused with a lot of garlic and a few red chili pepper flakes.
The waiter followed shortly after with large menus and an even larger wine and drink list. The eclectic wine list features over 60 bottles and about six glasses from around the globe, with an emphasis on Italian wines, of which there is quite a diverse collection. Although certainly reasonable, the bottles on the wine list range from $33.00 to as high as $325.00. The list also offers a few bottles of champagne and some dessert wines, as well as after dinner cordials and liquors, sold by the glass. We opted for a bottle of 2002 Villa Cieri Montepulciano D’Abruzzo , from Abruzzo, Italy.
As I opened up the epic brown-leather-bound menu, the protective plastic page covers crinkled with age and use. I wondered how many eyes before me had read the exact same descriptions of such Italian-American classics. Although the menu is self-proclaimed Northern Italian, having originated with recipes from Milan, many dishes have been Americanized, featuring a lot of sauce, a lot of garlic, and, in general, a lot of food. Dishes such as Chicken Parmigiana and Spaghetti with Meatballs, for which D’Angelo’s actually received the “Best of Philly” award, are not actually common or even found in Milan, but rather are American interpretations of Italian cuisine.
That said, there are dishes on the menu that do seem more Italian and those are the ones we tried to stick with. The waiter was very patient and informative as I contemplated the menu and he was also very helpful in answering specific questions about the dishes. He told us about the appetizer, pasta, fish and meat specials, which while not listed on the menu, are always offered, as they are considered specialties of the house. These specials are generally more expensive than the items on the menu. The general prices for the appetizers range from about $10-13, while the entrees range from $14-$33.
Our wine arrived immediately, and the appetizers arrived within a comfortable time frame of about 10 minutes. The Parma Prosciutto & Boccocini was overall very pleasing. The five generous slices of prosciutto were cut paper thin, lending a soft, airy texture. The pungent salty cured flavor was so pronounced that it seemed as if the prosciutto was sliced just minutes prior to serving. Three small balls of Boccocini cheese were firm with a nice milky flavor. The meat and cheese were laid on top of iceberg lettuce, making the dish more of a salad than a charcuterie plate.
The Calamari Salad, featuring steamed calamari over a bed of iceberg lettuce, was an overall disappointment. The calamari were steamed, but were tough, and chewy, as if they had been cooked too long. They were served over undressed iceberg lettuce, drizzled with oil and garnished with parsley, and, of course, garlic. The garlic lent the dish some flavor, but the calamari themselves were bland.
Our entrees arrived shortly after our appetizers were cleared away. We ordered the Veal Piccatini, with wine sauce and lemon, and the Shrimp Scampi over Linguine. Both dishes were plated very simply.
The Veal Piccatini was an overall satisfying dish. Three large pieces of thinly cut scaloppini were placed in a simple sauce of white wine, lemon, garlic, and oil, with a bit of cut up parsley garnished over the veal. The veal slices were pan-seared, cooked throughout, but still quite tender. I was able to cut the veal with my fork, which is always a good sign. My veal came with my choice of pasta, and I chose cappellini, which was cooked al dente and covered in a thick, sweet red sauce.
The Shrimp Scampi over Linguine was not exactly what we expected. It was heartier than the delicate, simple preparation I was used to. The sauce was tomato-based and aggressive, and I thought quite dissonant with the delicate seafood; however, according to your preference you might prefer D’Angelo’s hearty version. Surrounding the linguini and red sauce were four or five butterflied shrimp on the side of the bowl. While they were tasty, the texture of the shrimp was a bit tough. An overall theme of D’Angelo’s that presented itself in both entrees was the omnipresence of garlic and oil.
We almost didn’t have room for dessert, but decided to order the chocolate cake, which the server said was made fresh daily. The cake was rich, creamy, and quite delicious, and the perfect way to top off an already decadent meal.
In conclusion, if you are hungry and looking for some standard hearty Italian food, go to D’Angelo’s. Its romantic atmosphere suitable for any first date, or just some good-old fashioned feasting.
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Reservations
Business Info
- Address: 256 South 20th Street, Philadelphia PA 19103
- Cross Street: Rittenhouse Square
- Location: Center City
- Cuisine: Italian |
- Cost: | Moderate
- Category: Casual Dining
- Star Rating:
- Reservations: Recommended
- Dress Code: Business Casual
- Meals Served: Lunch | Dinner | Late |
- Parking: Street | Public Lot |
- Payment Options: VISA | Amex | MasterCard | Discover |
- Corkage Fee: N/A
- Website: http://www.dangeloristorante.com
- Phone: (215) 546-3935
- Features: Full Bar, Late Dining, Live Entertainment, Personal Wines Allowed,
- Occasion: Romantic Dining, Meet for a Drink, Quiet Conversation, Special Occasion,
Photos
Business Hours
Reservations Available
- Monday
- All Day - Main Dining Room 11:30 a.m. - 11:45 p.m.
- Tuesday
- All Day - Main Dining Room 11:30 a.m. - 11:45 p.m.
- Wednesday
- All Day - Main Dining Room 11:30 a.m. - 11:45 p.m.
- Thursday
- All Day - Main Dining Room 11:30 a.m. - 11:45 p.m.
- Friday
- All Day - Main Dining Room 11:30 a.m. - 11:45 p.m.
- Saturday
- Dinner - Main Dining Room 5 p.m. - 11:45 p.m.
- Sunday