Fogo de Chao

A prerequisite to enjoying this Brazilian steakhouse is to be very, very hungry. I was warned in advance that this Philadelphia hot-spot should not be called an “all-you-can-eat” restaurant, rather, an “all-you-want-to-eat” one. I have been to all-you-can-eat restaurants where all I wanted to eat was the bread, but Fogo de Chão revolutionized my idea of this concept. A word of advice: wear your pants with the elastic waistband for this experience.

The restaurant, which opened in December 2006, is one of 10 Fogo de Chão locations in the United States. It is located at 1337 Chestnut Street, only blocks away from City Hall and the Convention Center, in the heart of center city. The family of Fogo de Chão restaurants have been recognized by Zagat’s as one of America’s Top Restaurants and have won Awards of Excellence from Wine Spectator every year since 2002.

The concept of Fogo de Chão stems from southern Brazil and the Gaucho way of roasting meats over pits of open fire, originally at barbecues and festivals. This is what is known as churrasco and it was tradition for the men to be responsible for the barbecuing. The name, Fogo de Chão (pronounced “fo-go de shown”), roughly translates to “fire on the ground.” Fogo de Chão’s founders, two brothers from southern Brazil who were raised with strong gaucho traditions, commenced this widely successful chain when they opened their first Fogo de Chão in 1979 in Porto Alegre, Brazil. Their concept was to use a prix-fixe menu combining espeto corrido, Portuguese for “continuous service.”  I was anxious to try this popular dining concept that had received such widespread enthusiasm.

Our host, garbed in traditional Gaucho clothing, led us through the bustling and opulent front room. The room was primarily adorned with dark wood beams and eye-popping murals of Brazilian landscapes. Extravagant chandeliers, from what appeared to be the early 1900’s, hung from the tall ceilings. White-clothed tables were generously spaced apart, allowing for plenty of privacy and comfort. The atmosphere was loud, lively, and sophisticated, and appeared to draw a mixed crowd, accommodating corporate types and large groups as easily as more intimate diners including couples and families. The restaurant can seat up to 320 guests and offers private and semi-private dining areas. There are also two very impressive, tall wine rooms, displaying bottles from around the world.

Our host led us to a smaller, quieter room in the back and I marveled as waiters scurried around us, slicing off cuts of meat from huge skewers onto heaping plates. Little did I know that I was to become the next victim of gluttony.

Our server took our drink orders from an extensive wine menu, consisting of a variety of quality vintages and wine growing regions. Each wine, including reds, whites, and sparkling, were specially selected to complement the various cuts of meats on the menu. We were then set free to explore the salad bar, and its 35 eclectic items. The display consisted of a huge selection of gourmet salads, cheeses like fresh mozzarella, and vegetables such as artichoke hearts, hearts of palm, wild mushrooms, and asparagus. It was difficult not to pile my plate too high, so as not to ruin my dinner. The greens and vegetables were extremely fresh, and the cheeses were just the right complement.

When we were ready for our main course, we used our disks on the table by flipping them to green to indicate to the waiters that they could start presenting us with the meat selections.  Fogo de Chão offers 15 different cuts of fire-roasted meats. In addition, side dishes were served and automatically replenished throughout our meal – warm cheese bread, fried bananas, crispy polenta, and seasoned mashed potatoes.

Initially, I thought it seemed like a drawback that there were only the four side dishes to select from as accompaniments to my meal; however, I quickly learned the benefit of simplicity: Fogo de Chão has perfected each and every one of them. I had to contain myself from eating too many of the incredibly creamy mashed potatoes. They were not like the version my mom used to make, with chunks of potato, but possibly even better. Just like an M&M, these potatoes melted in my mouth. The fried bananas were another hit – the sweetness of the bananas was a perfect balance to the saltiness of the meats.

Speaking of meat, we started off with the pork ribs (Costela de Porco), prime rib (Beef Ancho), and leg of lamb (Cordeiro). It was hard to say no when we were presented with the meat at our table, with wafts of fresh fire-roasted aromas flooding our olfactory senses. I specified to the server that I wanted my prime rib medium rare, and he flipped his skewer and shaved off a perfectly red slice. I was told to use my poker to snag the meat from the skewer and place it on my plate. My friend asked for it cooked medium. I was curious to see the difference. The server shaved off another slice from a slightly lower part of the skewer, and lo and behold, it was not as red as mine, and just the right shade of pink. The prime rib was excellent –it was juicy and just the right texture.

A highlight was the sirloin wrapped in bacon (Filet Mignon), a succulent cut from the tenderloin that, tasted salty and delicious. This was prepared ahead of time, wrapped with the bacon in the kitchen, and then served in small, 2 or 3 bite, pieces. This was like biting into the best part of a BLT but with ten times the flavor.

The garlic sirloin (Picanha) was a wonderful treat for any garlic-lover (myself included), infused with a strong, rich garlic taste in every bite. The strong garlic flavor ignited by the sirloin was perfectly balanced when combined with the mashed potatoes.

The pork sausages (Linguica) were excellent, robust and mouth-watering, which is notable coming from someone who is not a sausage fan. They were served in small, individual sausage portions and were seasoned and slow-roasted, making the sausages incredibly juicy with a nice, firm texture. Some other selections included beef ribs (Costela), chicken drumsticks (Frango), and top sirloin (Alcatra).

Just when I thought we had tried most of the selections, another server would swing by with a brand new cut, ready to serve. For the most part, the time it took for the next server to arrive out our table was consistent. When our plates would fill up we simply flipped our disk to red, indicating that the servers refrain from approaching our table. And, finally, when I felt like I could not fit anything else into my stomach, I flipped my card to red, indicating that I was done eating.

My dining partner mentioned that the servers were actually the chefs. Of course, I told him he was wrong and insisted we ask. So we grabbed the prime rib guy and asked him. He affirmed my friend’s bit of knowledge that the servers of each meat selection were also the chefs of that particular cut of meat. I was amazed that these guys were running back and forth from the kitchen to the dining room, cooking and then serving their own meats.

The service was exceptional, and it was clear that Fogo de Chão has a high standard of customer service. They were there when we needed them, not there when we did not need them, and worked together in making sure everyone was happy. Unlike many other restaurants, all of Fogo de Chão’s servers are on-call for every table. Furthermore, the guests set the pace through the use of the disks, which passes control to the diners in deciding how quickly or slowly they desire the food to arrive. It is obvious that Fogo de Chão values their guests a great deal, and the staff goes out of their way to ensure guest satisfaction.

I left little room for dessert, but could not resist trying the Turtle Cheesecake, which was surprisingly exceptional. For having a focus on fire-roasted meats, Fogo de Chão certainly did not disappoint when it came to the end. The cheesecake was creamy, sweet, and melted in my mouth. Some other options included a café latte cheesecake and a flan that a nearby diner exclaimed to be delicious.

This all came at a set price of $48.50 per person for dinner, and it was worth every penny. Fogo de Chão also serves lunch, with the same menu for only $29.50 per person. This churrascaria steakhouse is a welcome addition to a city whose dining scene just keeps getting better. Fogo de Chão has definitely made my list of Philadelphia favorites.