Kristian's

Situated on the corner of a quiet street in a South Philadelphia neighborhood, Kristian’s is the South Philly Italian restaurant experience at its best. Executive Chef and Owner Kristian Leuzzi lent his culinary talents to one of Philadelphia’s top restaurants for years before opening his own place on the same block where he grew up.

At Kristian’s, the most important ingredient is family. Everyone in the family has had a role in making Kristian’s one of the best Italian restaurants in the city. Kristian, his father Dominick, and brothers, Sonny and Joseph, worked for two years converting an old neighborhood butcher shop into the elegant and inviting restaurant that it is today.

Each element was chosen with care, such as the unique coral stone wall that serves as a backdrop to the bar and dining room, and each impeccably set table. Warm, dark woods and marble accents draw guests in from the city streets to the front room where a full size bar and a few tables allow guests to look out through large picture windows. The dining room is intimate, but not over crowded, making Kristian’s well-suited for a range of special events. The kitchen spans the entire length of the restaurant, allowing ample room for the chef to perfect each dish.

A room full of smiling faces greeted us as we walked through the door, offering a genuine hospitality that has become increasingly rare in restaurants.  Often filled with family and friends, the atmosphere was warm and relaxed, but it retained a fine dining quality. Amber lights glowed over the marble topped bar, and the sultry voice of a jazz singer cooed softly in the background.

Joseph, a childhood friend of the Leuzzi’s, showed us to our table. A sincere and gracious host, he has been with Kristian’s since its opening 10 years ago. All of the staff has been with Kristian’s since its inception, and are part of the family. Joseph poured us two glasses of Sangiovese as he told us about the menu, describing each dish with pride. His descriptions made our mouths water, and finally we settled on the Anitra and Calamari appetizers, and Gnocchi with Mussels and Kristian’s famed Osso Buco with Saffron Risotto for our entrees.

We sat back and sipped our wine with a homemade, crusty bread served with a tasty olive oil, white bean, and olive mix. Sangiovese is an Italian wine with a fruity flavor and a slight spiciness. It proved a good paring with each of our dishes. Kristian’s offers an impressive wine list, with a selection ranging from reasonably priced to fine wines. There is also a wide variety of top shelf liquors.

Our appetizers came quickly, and were carefully arranged on each plate. The Calamari was braised in a light, flavorful white wine shellfish broth, with clams and tender peas that lent a subtle fresh flavor to the dish. The calamari was firm and delicate, not at all chewy, and served with buttery toast points. The broth was perfect for dipping bread, at the risk of filling up before the entrees even arrived.

The Anitra - Italian for duck - was sweet and tender, and melted in the mouth. Served with crispy pears poached in a red wine sauce, and sprinkled with cinnamon, it was a perfect balance of savory and sweet. Both appetizers offered a good amount of food, and either would have served well as an entrée for a light appetite.

The staff was exceptionally attentive, and our glasses were never empty. Soon after we finished our appetizers, Joseph returned with our entrees. The Osso Buco lived up to its distinction as the best in Philadelphia. The dish was a generous portion of braised veal shank, served with fragrant rosemary, and a full-bodied, dark sauce. The slow-cooked veal folded from the bone as soon as my fork touched it. The meat was flavorful, and so tender that I didn’t need a knife. Kristian’s also has a reputation for fabulous risottos, and the saffron risotto was no exception. Creamy and rich, it was a perfect compliment to the veal. The consistency was soft, without being mushy.

The dish is served with a marrow fork. Don’t let it go unused! Marrow is considered a delicacy, and if you have never tried it before, this is the time to experience it.  It is, after all, the heart of the dish. It has a mellow taste with hints of the savory veal that surrounds it.

The Gnocchi with mussels was perfect. Light and pillowy, the potato dumplings were served in a large bowl in white wine sauce with leeks and crisp red and yellow peppers. Joseph recommended removing each mussel from its shell before starting, and letting them soak in the broth a bit. It created a light and delicious stew.

Kristian’s portions are generous, and there is little chance anything will be left on the plate, so guest’s appetites are guaranteed to be sated with dinner alone.  Still, there is a tempting assortment of homemade sweets, along with coffee, tea and cappuccino. We finished our meal with two Graham’s 10 Year Tawny Ports. The smooth and sweet desert wine was a perfect end to our night.

The warm and elegant atmosphere here makes it well-suited for special occasions, or just a romantic night for two. Kristian’s is truly a sum of all its parts. Each element - talented chef, committed family, warm atmosphere, excellent service- makes it one of the best restaurants in Philadelphia.