Growing up in a small Sicilian village, Francesco Basile knew he wanted to get into the kitchen at a young age. But while many children simply ponder what they want to do when they get older, Basile decided to take his aspirations seriously. After finishing middle school, he enrolled in a nearby culinary school, where he spent three years acquiring a base of knowledge. "They start your experience," he says of the training he received. After graduating, he was equipped with the knowledge he needed to start work in restaurants. He explains that worked "here and there" until 1991, when he decided to come to America.
He chose to move to Southern California, because the climate and the weather closely resembled that of his hometown. He landed in Huntington Beach, and got a job at La Mangia Mangia, a family-style Italian restaurant owned by Giuseppe and Pietro Cefalu, two brothers from Sicily. He spent seven years working for the Cefalu brothers in Orange County, until he received a job offer that brought him to San Diego. He made the short move down the coast, where he accepted the offer at Osteria Panevino in the Gaslamp. He spent two and a half years at Osteria Panevino, until he was offered another job in Orange County. Rather than move again, Basile opted to commute from San Diego to Orange County. Not surprisingly, after several years of the two-hour commute, he decided it was time for a change.
Basile was ready to open his own place. "I was tired of making other people money," he explains with a smile. "I wanted to make money for myself. I wanted to challenge myself." He scouted out locations and decided on a small restaurant in a shopping center in La Mesa. When he found the location, the next step was to decide what the area needed. "Looking around, most restaurants here were pizza houses, or spaghetti houses. I decided to go a different route." He came up with a menu that leaned on a few traditional Italian dishes, such as lasagna and veal parmesan, but that was mostly devoted to original creations. "I created the menu on my own, to be really different." He cites some of his most creative dishes as Penne Mazzini, featuring penne with prosciutto, artichoke, and green olives in a cream sauce, and Fettucini all' Antica, the restaurant's namesake creation featuring sausage, sundried tomatoes, and zucchini in a veal stock and sherry sauce.
Once the concept was firmed, the real work began. "When I found the restaurant, in the condition it was in, I said 'I have to be crazy,'" Basile explains. He describes how the walls were painted pink and the ceiling was painted green. "It was a mess." Basile set to work transforming the space from eyesore to a comforting dining room that is both gracious and welcoming. Now, mild tan tones serve as a muted backdrop, while walls are tastefully adorned with copper pots and pans, oversized murals, and artwork showcasing Italian scenery—including an oversized oil of the Siena countryside and several smaller prints of his home town. "It's very rustic. From the outside you don't expect to find a restaurant like this," he boasts.
In the eight years that the restaurant has been open, Basile has garnered a local following entirely through word of mouth. "The locals are really loyal," he observes. To cater to his loyal patrons, Basile changes the menu frequently. He offers specials each evening, showcasing specialties such as rack of lamb and osso buco. He also completely overhauls the menu as the seasons change. "I change the menu twice a year," he explains. When summer arrives, he fills the menu with lighter dishes, and offers heartier cuisine during the mild winter months. Overall, his dishes are simple and rustic, stemming from a creative combination of harmonious ingredients and flawless execution. "Most of my main courses are really simple," he explains of dishes such as Maiale alla Piemotese, a roasted, pepper-crusted pork loin served with caramelized apples and a Barolo wine reduction.
Basile returns to Italy at least once a year, and often goes for up to two months at a time. "I go when the restaurant is quiet, in the summer months," he explains. "I go to rejuvenate myself.” While he travels all over Italy, a recent trip brought him back to his hometown, a tiny village of just 600 people near Palermo. He shares photos of the town on his phone. The town goes right to the edges of the Mediterranean, the sea's bright blue waters serving a vibrant contrast to the pale houses and buildings. It is stunningly picturesque, and I suddenly realize that we in San Diego are lucky to have Basile among us. However, as I marvel over the stunning beauty of his home town, he reassures me: “my life is here.”