Ryan Johnston

Executive Chef

Fresh[er]

To Executive Chef Ryan Johnston, the word fresh is not merely an adjective but a challenge. Working in a restaurant of the same name—Fresh Seafood Restaurant in La Jolla—Johnston strives to consistently hold his kitchen to exacting standards of freshness. As a rule, produce is local and seasonal, fish is locally caught when possible and never more than two days out of the water, and bread is baked daily on premise.  Fresh, to Johnston, suggests a mindful approach, a constant search for quality, and a determination to consistently uphold standards.

Johnston joined Fresh in July of 2006, at the invitation of new Owner and Manager Arturo Kassel.  Sharing a vision, the two embraced the challenge of transforming the restaurant into what they saw as a “Fresh[er]” space.  Johnston began seeking out the highest quality producers of local produce, fish, and meat, and developed a menu that showcased the quality of these superlative ingredients. He soon saw the restaurant transform: the philosophy shifted, the menu and wine list evolved, and the experience of dining at Fresh[er] became worlds apart from when it was simply Fresh. 

Johnston is no stranger to working with quality and freshness. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, he spent a year working as a sous chef at Bouchon, the Yountville bistro owned by prestigious Chef Thomas Keller of French Laundry fame. Working alongside Keller and Chefs Jeffrey Cerciello and Josh Schwartz, Johnston was instilled with their philosophies, learning the power and elegance of dishes that, free of any overpowering elements, were prepared to allow each ingredient’s innate flavors resonate on the palate.

This approach to quality and simplicity stuck with Johnston throughout his various culinary endeavors, from Loretta Keller’s Bizou and Real Restaurant Group’s Tonno Rosso in San Francisco, to most recently the Blackhorse Grill in San Diego.  “Simplicity done well is perfection,” Johnston explains.  At Fresh, this approach melds perfectly with both the restaurant’s name and Kassel’s vision, all three of which could not be better suited for each other.

The “Simply Grilled” dish on Fresh’s menu may be the epitome of Johnston’s approach: a dish where diners select their choice of fish for Johnston to grill and serve unadorned, paired with seasonal Chino Farms vegetables. “The vegetables stand on their own,” he explains, “and you can taste the difference in quality: a Chino Farms cauliflower is sweeter than regular cauliflower.”  With all of Johnston’s preparations founded on simple preparations and quality ingredients, each dish becomes light yet flavorful, and enjoyable without being overpowering.

Johnston’s dishes are also quite healthy, an effect he personally enjoys: “I want to see people coming in here two or three times a week, and you just can’t do that when dishes are overpowering or rich.”   Butter and cream are rarely seen on his menu, as Johnston prefers high quality olive oil.  And the ingredients themselves lean toward the sustainable, like hormone and pesticide-free meats, biodynamic produce, and handcrafted, artisanal products like cheese.  Johnston’s menu changes seasonally, allowing him to include the freshest ingredients at any time of the year. He also changes parts of the menu weekly, allowing for the creativity and flexibility to try out new dishes or ingredients.

The menu—90% of which is new—and the kitchen’s philosophy are not the only change Johnston has seen at the new Fresh[er].  While the décor has mostly stayed the same, he believes the atmosphere is vastly different. As a result of the revamped menu, the place seems more upscale, like a casual bistro or brasserie—a comfortable yet exciting neighborhood place that is equally suited to weeknight meals and special occasions.  Furthermore, in the kitchen, Johnston is delighted to not only focus on the food, but to work as part of a team with the ultimate goal of perfecting the overall dining experience. “People don’t come for the food, they come for the dining experience,” he explains, adding, “When you go to a great restaurant like the French Laundry, what you remember is the experience.”

Perhaps indicative of Johnston’s commitment to the full experience is one of his favorite rituals in the kitchen.  “I really enjoy making the bread every day,” Johnston confesses, “I get a great sense of satisfaction.”  He sees this simple preparation as a way to offer a “gift from the restaurant” to each diner.  Time-consuming and crafted with care, then bestowed to each guest fresh from oven to table, the bread at Fresh may well be the perfect symbol of a chef that is truly invested in freshness.