Jack's La Jolla - Grille

Jack’s Grille may offer one of the most unique opportunities in San Diego—the chance to sample the creations of a revered fine dining chef at casual bistro prices. The Grille, one of three restaurants that comprise Jack’s La Jolla, falls under the aegis of Executive Chef Tony DiSalvo, whose talented creations have set the most prestigious of Jack’s restaurants—the Dining Room—on the culinary map.

DiSalvo’s vision for the Grille is a stripped-down style inspired by the food he grew up with. While the menu is casual, the cuisine is infused with DiSalvo’s meticulous style, careful attention to detail, and brilliant and creative blending of flavors, allowing diners to get a glimpse of DiSalvo’s talent without the commitment—or cost—of a formal meal.

Set in the open air atrium in the center of the Jack’s complex, the Grille’s features are stunning: a fire pit holds a flickering flame, a “River Table” features running water cascading down its center; and two semi circular booths replace walls as the defining element of the Grille’s space. An adjacent, equally contemporary lounge and a chef’s seating area overlooking the kitchen offer additional dining space, while the nearby Wine Bar features low couches, dim lighting, and on many evenings, live music. Unlike the upstairs Dining Room, which offers a refined elegance and formality, the downstairs Grille boasts a lively, hip atmosphere that attracts a flocking crowd. Garnering a reputation as a late night hot spot, the Grille’s atmosphere is ideal for first dates, a gathering of friends, or dinner before hitting the town.

We began our evening in the Wine Bar as a live jazz band was setting up nearby. We were greeted by General Manager and Wine Director Myres McDougal, who recommended a glass of Layer Cake Shiraz to start our evening. Glancing at the wine list, we eagerly accepted his recommendation—we saw many unfamiliar yet intriguing wines that we were eager to try. We asked Myres if he would continue to recommend wine pairings throughout our meal and he eagerly agreed.

As the band began to play, we moved to the atrium for our meal, where our server, Jared, greeted us with menus. We were surprised to learn that the original concept for Jack’s Grille was a “small plates” menu, with the idea that groups could come in for a casual bite and a drink. As diners quickly became impressed with the small plates, they began to inquire about entrees, and the Grille menu now offers a variety of entrees, pizzas, gourmet burgers, and at lunchtime, panini sandwiches. While the appetizers are still tempting enough to create a meal of small plates alone, we ultimately ordered from all sections of the menu.

Just before our first dish arrived, Myres brought a Muros Antigos Alvarinho, a unique white wine that proved an excellent example of the uncommon wines that beg to be discovered on Jack’s wine list. The crisp, almost effervescent wine perfectly complemented our Endive, Pear, & Candied Walnut Salad, a stunningly refreshing combination of pure ingredients. Paper-thin slivers of Bayley Hazen Blue Cheese balanced atop a towering array of texture and color; gentle green arugula mingled with thick slivers of pale endive, while thin wisps of radish and red onion added a delicate touch of burgundy. The artisan cheese's creamy smoke and mild earth tastes mingled expertly with crisp, refreshing endive and explosive candied walnuts. The dish was a perfect example of the brilliance of a simple, well-selected combination of ingredients; it was our first glimpse at how DiSalvo excels at selecting flavors and textures that heighten a dish’s intensity.

We next sampled the Dungeness Crab Spring Rolls, served with hydroponic lettuce and Papaya Mustard dipping sauce. Jared explained how the chef recommended wrapping the lettuce around the spring rolls and dipping them in the sauce, adding a unique twist to a common dish. The lettuce somehow added a layer of fullness and depth, adding a gentle airiness to the crisp shell and rich crab filling; we were amazed at how such a simple addition could transform a traditional dish into something new and refreshing.

Before our third appetizer Myres brought out a Kistler “Les Noisetiers” Chardonnay from Sonoma, aptly named after the French word for hazelnuts. The big chardonnay was buttery, oaky, and rich, with hints of vanilla and nuts, and offered an excellent accompaniment to what proved to be our favorite appetizer, Spice-Rubbed Lamb Chops. While initially surprised to find lamb chops offered as an appetizer, after one bite we were convinced every meal should begin with such bold tastes. Thin chops leaned against a julienne salad of green papaya and carrots, accompanied by a drizzle of tangy peanut citrus sauce. The lamb chops were at once savory and tender, with bold flavor from the cumin and paprika rub. The salad was a mixture of sweet and spicy flavors, while the tangy peanut sauce offered the perfect acidity to match the richness of the meat.

As we savored each bite of the lamb, I realized that while Jack’s Grille has evolved from the original concept of a small plates menu, its small plates still offered a great way to enjoy the Grille’s offerings. The appetizer selection offered an enticing variety of both lighter and more substantial small plates that showcased a full range of flavors. In such a casual atmosphere, sharing two to three appetizers along with a shared pizza or entrée seemed an ideal and fun way to sample a range of DiSalvo’s delightful dishes.

In this spirit, we couldn’t resist tasting the Butternut Squash, Chestnut and Barley Soup, which when set before us offered an enticing, earthy aroma. The soup seemed to epitomize comfort—rich, bold flavors of chestnut and pancetta mingled with more subtle rosemary and barley in such an elemental combination that the soup felt like perfection. Each bite continued to wow me as I sampled the combinations of textures and tastes in the comforting bowl.

With our appetizer tour having reached its end, we eagerly turned to the Grille’s next specialty, their pizzas. With house-made crust and artisan ingredients from goat cheese to prosciutto, the Grille’s pizzas pay homage to their Italian roots. After considering such diverse options as Roasted Eggplant, Sweet Sausage, and Asagio; and Potato, Sweet Onion, and Goat cheese; we opted for the Wild Mushroom and Fontina pie. Six slices featured rich, woodsy mushrooms mingling with nutty fontina cheese atop a thin crust reminiscent of the best New York City pies.

While the pizza was generously sized and could have easily served as a main course, we opted to box the remaining slices in order to sample the Grille’s entrées. For our final wine pairing, Myres opted for a wine available by the half bottle rather than the glass, explaining that he was finding half bottles more and more popular, especially for wine pairings for tables of four, or couples looking for both a white and a red with their meal. Such attention to wine in such a casual restaurant was rare, and we relished the thought and care behind each of Myers’s suggestions. He presented a half bottle of Talisman Wildcat Mountain Pinot Noir, a 2003 from Los Carneros.

When our dishes arrived, I realized why so many diners requested entrees be added to the menu. While simpler than DiSalvo’s Dining Room creations, each dish belied an elegance and array of flavors that was clearly DiSalvo’s work. The Organic Chicken was presented atop glistening herb risotto, alongside a deep orange puree of butternut squash gracefully applied to the plate like a thick stroke of paint on a canvas. Jet black trumpet mushrooms crowned the chicken, and a drizzle of maple gastrique finished the dish. Each component basked in its own perfection, when combined the dish tasted brilliantly triumphant.

The Black Bass was equally artistic, intricate, and impressive; pale white fish sat atop dark Swiss chard amid a bright magenta pool of beet vinaigrette, graced with a swath of white parsnip puree. The parsnip was an explosion of flavor, while the fish, delicate and dainty, tasted almost sweet with the cherry almond crust and beet vinaigrette.

Halfway through our entrees, we sat back, letting our senses bask in the delightful aromas and tastes of our dishes. We were surprised to realize a large buzz had filled the air, and turned to find the bar area packed, having filled quickly over the course of our meal. A mostly young crowd mingled among the dim lights and live jazz and we suddenly felt we were dining in a hip nightclub rather than a casual restaurant. Myres explained Thursday through Saturday evenings often brought a lively crowd, while weekday nights were often calmer—advice I made a mental note of. The lively crowd might be enticing on a fun night out, but could be a major deterrent for an intimate meal or business dinner. Of course, for the latter two, either Jack’s Ocean Room or Dining Room would be perfect.

We decided to conclude our flavorful meal with a simple dessert—a pear compote with black pepper ice cream, which offered a twist on the traditional apple pie a la mode. Sweet pears and rich pie crust were accompanied by subtle hints of spice, and we savored for one last time the delicate flavors of each ingredient before combining them in the complex crescendo of a spoonful.

As we made our way past the trendy bar crowd toward the door, we almost wished Jack’s Grille could be kept a well guarded secret, hidden from the nightly throng of patrons. Alas, we realized that with such a winning combination of food, ambiance, and service, Jack’s Grille was destined to attract such an enthusiastic crowd.