Laurel

Opening the thick glass door at the corner of Fifth and Laurel Streets, it takes no more than a moment to realize that the dining experience at Laurel is going to be different. Stepping through the street-level entrance puts guests at a high vantage point, overlooking a dining room that sits sunken below ground level. An L-shaped staircase necessitates a slow, deliberate descent, providing every patron with a regal entrance and an opportunity to slowly savor the restaurant’s stunning design.

A whimsical interpretation of elegance and a coy mingling of historic and modern, the decor consists of a careful assemblage of seemingly disparate elements that are just eclectic enough to work as a whole. Bold black-and-white floral designs weave around bright red, electric chartreuse, and Kelly-green accents. Historic elements are incorporated with modern sensibility, such as chandelier-like crystal teardrops strung along long metal light fixtures. Seemingly incongruous historic styles are unified through careful detail, such as Queen Anne and mid-century armchairs both upholstered in houndstooth prints. Conceptualized by owner Tracy Borkum, and executed by Graham Downes Architecture, it is a setting that seems more London or Paris than San Diego, a refreshing burst of savvy elegance that seems year's ahead of the city's dining scene.

Yet as sophisticated as the decor is, its effect is to encourage playfulness. Even early in the evening, the space is abuzz with lively conversation and smiling groups of guests. The bar at the foot of the stairs is often filled to capacity, with an after-work crowd taking advantage of the nightly "7 before 7" happy hour, when seven appetizers and seven drinks are just $7 each. The dining room, too, is filled with jovial chatter, coming from couples and large parties alike. The room’s large central banquette is especially accommodating to larger parties, while two private rooms are poised to accommodate more intimate affairs.

During one visit, we arrive during Tapas Tuesday, a popular weekly venture that showcases an inspired selection of small plates and live lounge music by the talented Donnie Finnell. Executive Chef Joe Magnanelli, who can be found preparing tapas behind the bar, offers a new interpretation of small plates each week. One week’s Asian-inspired selection includes Salmon Belly Sashimi, with pale lemongrass sticky rice, wakame seaweed salad, and a feisty chili ponzu; and a Hoisin Duck Salad, with pale glass noodles, shredded mint, fresh watercress, and vibrant pickled pineapple.

Despite the lure of the tapas bar, we are drawn to the dining room, whose stunning decor and whimsical elegance we can't resist. We are seated in one of several curved booths, and are immediately drawn to the red leather binder that holds the wine selection. Laurel's wine list is enticing and easily-navigated, complete with insightful descriptions of by-the-glass offerings and featured bottles. While the by-the-glass selection tends toward the domestic, the bottle list leans equally on American and French wines, with a spattering of select South African, Australian, and other European selections. I'm enticed by a Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc, which proves simultaneously citrusy and crisp, with a sharp, spicy finish of herbs and pepper. My companion's choice, Kenneth Volk's Santa Maria Cuvee Pinot Noir, is elegant and smooth, with deep flavors of cherry and a creamy mouthfeel.

The menus are equally magnetic, giving guests a choice of the seasonal a-la-carte selection, the chef's five-course tasting menu, or, if the hour is right, a three-course "pre-theater" menu, served from 5:00 - 6:30. While Laurel's heritage is French—it opened as a formal French restaurant in 1995—recent years have seen a transformation toward a more modern, and more global, cuisine. The most dramatic change occurred in 2005, when Tracy Borkum took over the restaurant, modernizing the cuisine to accompany her stunning reinvention of the decor. Chef Magnanelli, who took over the kitchen in March 2008, brings a creative aesthetic and a passion for freshness and sustainability, resulting in a cosmopolitan fare that seems simultaneously worldly and local. His new menu is a culmination of Mediterranean inspiration, international influences, and high-quality, local ingredients.

The Crispy Duck Spring Roll is a playful introduction to Chef Magnanelli's cuisine, a clear fusion of his affinity for Asian flavors and his penchant for haute preparations. The dish is elegant and exquisite, centering on a trio of cylindrical spring rolls accompanied by an array of delicate accompaniments. Presentation is minimalistic, with the spring rolls standing upright at one end of a course stone platter. A sweet gastrique and line of crushed chilies run down the center of the platter, and a Chinese soup spoon filled with relish sits at the other end. The relish is brilliant, a feisty blend of daikon, carrot, scallions, and mild blue cheese that provides an intriguing explosion of flavors while managing to cleanse the palate between bites. Then there is the duck itself: rich, almost creamy prosciutto tucked inside crispy filo-dough-like shells that back the delicacy in both taste and texture. While the relish is thought-provoking and demanding, each bite of the comforting spring rolls is pure pleasure.

Beet Green and Ricotta Ravioli, available as both a starter and a main course, boasts the quintessential flavors of farm-to-plate. A deep white bowl holds a pool of translucent ginger consommé, whose clarity reveals a trio of oversized round pasta forms hiding beneath the surface. Swimming in the broth is a medley of earthly delights: wilted leaves of broccoli spigarello—a variety of broccoli that produces more leafy greens than florets—slivers of petite spring onions, and colorful wedges of baby gold and Chioggia beets. It's almost as if the ravioli and broth are meant to be savored separately, the lush texture of fresh pasta and the creamy, explosive flavor of ricotta is decadent; while the clear, crisp broth resonates with earthy wholesomeness, each bite seeming restorative and pure. The contrast is revelatory, making this a truly engaging dish.

Entrees are no less intriguing, each seeming to offer a dichotomy of comfort and wholesomeness. The Pan Seared Dayboat Scallops are a classic presentation, four U-10 scallops aligned in a row, each boasting a glistening brown sear atop pale white flesh. The presentation may be classic, but the preparation is deviant: the first bite reveals a subtle, smoky, comforting flavor that can only mean one thing—bacon. Indeed, Chef Magnanelli sears the bivalves in bacon drippings, lending a sweet decadence to the pure shellfish. Beneath the scallops sprawls more bacon, thickly diced in a medley of shelled edamame and fresh corn kernels—a homey accompaniment that lends a playful edge to the dish. Lest the palate be swayed too far from elegance, a thick swath of pale white puree lends complexity and intrigue—one bite reveals the bewitching, peppery root flavor of sunchokes. Alternating between silky scallop, savory succotash, and spicy sunchoke brings surprise and delight to each forkful.

The Duroc Pork Tenderloin may be the most unique preparation on the menu. The long, cylindrical tenderloin is barely recognizable when it arrives, seared a dark brown and coated with oat flakes so that the meat is all but hidden. The tenderloin sits on an enticing bed of farro and earthy vegetables, the glistening, barley-like grain mingling with plump brown beech mushrooms and halved Brussels sprouts. The pork is surprising, the first bite tasting not of pork but of oatmeal, the oat flakes melding with the heirloom breed's natural sweetness. The farro, too, is novel and stunning, with a tender texture and a risotto-like sweetness. A trio of cipollini onions garnishes the plate, each caramelized to a deep brown, and topped with a raw Brussels sprout leaf filled with sweet onion puree. Regardless of what fills the fork, each bite of this dish is intriguing, rich, and satisfying.

A meal at Laurel is one to let linger, as there seems no reason to leave such a lively, playful setting. As the evening progresses, and the sun sets, translucent blinds shield the streets outside, and the whole room seems like a secret underground supper club. Surrounded by the buzz of conversation and laughter, there seems no choice but to prolong the evening by indulging in dessert.

Pastry Chef Ben Rollins’s desserts are not only indulgent, but adventurous. As with Laurel’s savory dishes, desserts are playful and multifarious, each dish boasting several components and a myriad of flavors. The Apricot and Ricotta Tart is a stunning presentation, a round, glistening pastry accompanied by swaths of Tuaca tangerine cream, crushed pistachios, and a scoop of house-made apricot chamomile frozen yogurt. The flavors are not only wildly inventive, they are vibrant. The tart plays off the tangy sweetness of apricots, marrying the plump, glistening fruit with the creamy tang of ricotta. Both the yogurt and the cream are intriguing and elusive, the chamomile’s herbal pepperiness lingering long after each bite.

When the meal can be prolonged no longer, even the exit from Laurel seems elegant. The restaurant's regal staircase greets guests as they leave, allowing slow, determined steps that slowly emerge to street level. The slow ascent allows for a last glance around the grandiose space; taking in the lively buzz, the playful decor, and the welcoming staff, it is easy to vow to return.