This corner restaurant space has worn many hats, but the latest one, thanks to Shari and Kip Wade, looks like a keeper. There's a long, lively eat-in bar in front and the back is a narrow room opening onto a patio. The food is seasonal and imaginative, and the wine list, though limited, is not pricey. The crowd---which is made up of locals, but with a few suburban couples thrown in---chows down on salads of local tomatoes with fennel, or warm peaches and mascarpone; crisp fried smelts; and the house special, grilled double-smoked pork loin with orange blossom glaze. The portions are large and the welcome is warm.